Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Resorting to Ko Sa.

kosa006What beeps like a dying smoke detector, eats mangos and has a three foot wing span? Answer at the end of this post.

Our bags are packed.

This is a common occurrence for this couple of itinerant poets from the Ohio. Sara and I wait for our driver, Godwin, to pick us up and transport us back to Accra after having spent a couple days of rest and relaxation at the Ko Sa Beach Resort about three hours from the city. I am always surprised that everything fits back into the suitcases.

Rhona, our hostess back at the Lincoln Community School of Accra, made the reservations for us. She knew that the place would be a perfect site to recharge off the grid so to speak after a couple whirlwind weeks in Africa. Especially after our misadventures and misconnections trying to get to Ghana in the first place from Nigeria the relative tranquility of the gold coast was welcome respite.

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Consider, we had no way of knowing if our messages to Rhona about our delay in Lagos had even got to her, our relief to see her placidly sitting in the arrival lounge of Accra international. The calm of the airport compared to the bubbling cauldron Lagos couldn’t have been more disparate.

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Off we go to Rhona’s place for a quick cup of coffee, a banana shake, some toast and conversation then into the air conditioned car which whisks us to the beach. And here you find us – ready to visit school tomorrow and start working with the students and teachers of Lincoln Community.

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Find the crab.

Enjoy the pics.

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And here is you answer:

African Fruit bats, they would begin beeping (they really do sound like a smoke detector or a travel alarm) and calling at dusk then again at 4am as they returned to their roosts in the tree outside of our bungalow. Unique, but still a bit early for a wake up call.

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The not so friendly skies of Arik Air

Okay, I suppose our luck couldn’t hold out forever.

So our flight leaving Abuja was three and a half hours late which led to us missing our connecting flight to Accra and thus were we thrown into the blender which is Nigeria’s Lagos International Airport – set to puree please.

We landed at 4:15pm while our connecting flight was scheduled to take off at five. We’ve made tighter connections but there was just too much working against us this time. First off, Lagos airport is divided into two terminals, Domestic and International. They use the same runways, but the terminals themselves are a couple miles apart. We landed in the domestic and had to make our way to the International for our flight to Ghana. Add to that, even though our bags looked as if they had been checked through to our destination we had to pick them up in the domestic terminal and then load them ourselves into the back of a truck to cart them to International.

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But I’m getting ahead of myself – it wasn’t this easy.

Before we had the privilege of tossing our bags onto that truck we were told by alternating folks in the domestic terminal that we would and then that we would not make our flight, that the plane was waiting for us and that it was not, that there was a 7pm flight out that we could catch and that no the flight was at 7am.

We marched, dragging six bags behind us, from baggage claim to the Arik Air desk, to baggage claim, to Arik Air, to the transfer area where we are told to take a shuttle bus to the International Terminal and then told to take a cab, then told to wait for the shuttle, then told that Arik Air should call us a cab so back to Arik Air desk again – this time we were led back to the transfer area by an airline representative who told us to sit on the ground by the window. This we did. Things could have been worse I suppose – A South African lady we were waiting with told us that the area we were sitting in was a tent with dirt floors two years ago. It’s the little things that count.

It’s now getting to be around 5:15 but people are still saying they will hold the plane for us. Little by little we become a group of about fifteen waiting for the transfer bus to show up. Eventually the driver in his crisp white shirt appears apologizing to all and subsequently and mysteriously disappears for twenty minutes. Things ain’t looking so good. On the plus side – we haven’t been asked for any bribes yet.

Then all of a sudden after what seems to me to be no discernible change in our situation we are told the bus is here, the bus is here! – get moving. Sara and I lurch into the dusty heat outside the domestic terminal and careen with our bags down the steep embankment into the busy road running in front and then alongside the terminal. A cop shouts at us to, “Please save your life! Move to the side!” We see a truck the size of a mid level U-Haul and the folks in front of us begin tossing their bags in. I figured we were to clamber in after the bags and I would have done so at this point without batting an eye. But, one should always count one’s blessings, in front of this moving van was a standard shuttle bus and we scurried in.

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We finally arrive at the International Terminal; get our bags off of the ersatz U-Haul and make our way to the Arik Air desk here. It is now we finally get definitive word from a tall man with an Arik Air badge – the flight to Accra, Ghana is gone. In an instant, so too was the tall man with the badge. We are left standing with a crowd of fifty or so folks who have been displaced by the airline milling about in front of a half dozen empty check-in stations. It is now that I pick up through crowd rumblings that some folks have been stuck for two days! We dutifully wait in place, for the most part,  like the good citizens we are, I do wander off a bit every now and then to see if I can spot the tall man and call Rita (see earlier posts) to ask her to let our host in Ghana know we are not gonna make it.

Then over toward one of the unmanned check-in stations I see a man standing on a chair announcing something to the stranded masses. I sidle in to find out what is up. It is not an airline rep – but rather one of the marooned mob who is trying to rally some sort of uprising to the cheers and affirming grunts of his audience. I am starting to imagine that single line buried on page 47 of the New York Times, “Two Americans missing in Nigerian Airport riot.”

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I spy a young lady wearing an Arik Air uniform who is cautiously watching the crowd. I calmly ask her what we need to do to get boarding passes on the next flight to Accra. She takes the ticket stubs of our late flight disappears (people come and go so quickly here) returns with a couple porters and escorts Sara and me down some steps behind the check in stations where we are introduced to her supervisor, named appropriately, Blessings who turns out to be, someone we could count on.

We are booked on the first flight out the next morning. Arik Air is going to pay for a hotel and grub for us for the night and shuttle us back and forth. Well, in order to wrap this post up, I’ll let it suffice to say it was the second worse hotel we have ever stayed in – first place is still held by a dump in Breezwood, PA. While the hotel was a bit frightening, the staff was cordial; our driver was on time the next morning and our flight was only an hour late.

So here I sit, typing this up at a beach resort 2.5 hours outside of Accra listening to drums in the distance and village children laughing and shouting as they gather nuts from the tree alongside our bungalow.

Looks like our luck might be taking a turn for the better.

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American International School Abuja

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Look, there is green!

This is the first thing I noticed as we flew into Abuja from Lagos. It was a welcome sight after the dust and mud of the former capital. The new capital Abuja, with its wide and relatively pothole free roads felt wide open as we road to the school it's welcome was only surpassed by that of our librarian hostess Rita who came bearing Thai food - a sure way to elevate your position in this poet's esteem.

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Elementary assembly: before

That's the good news. The bad news is that our original flight had been cancelled and we were rushing late to the school to a flip flopped schedule. True to the high standards of the international school system - everyone rolled with it and made our visit a joy.

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Elementary assembly: during

We did a couple assemblies and then some writing workshops with the students and a little professional development with the teachers after classes on out last day. I worked with the middle and upper school and Sara wrote with the carpet crowd. We couldn't have felt more welcome. We stayed with Rita, her principle husband Lyle and their two sons. This doesn't mean that Rita has a second husband somewhere; Lyle is the principle of the upper school. Rounding out this clan is Bubba the African Gray Parrot and Max - the forever fetching canine.

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Sara and I tried a new thing this trip. We emailed a packet of sixty of our poems leveled. That means we sent 20 poems for elementary, 20 for middle and 20 for high school. Sometimes getting books to a place like Abuja, Nigeria isn't he easiest thing to do but e-mailing a cross section of work that can then be disseminated so the kids are familiar with us before we get there has made the visits so much more successful. We are going to carry this practice over to our stateside work as well.

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Anyway, we had a terrific time with all the kids big and small at AISA (pronounced eye-sa) and hope we get to see everybody again sooner than later.

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Go Crocs!

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Librarian Rita modeling the down portion of the Up Down I received from the general – See earlier post.

Abujian Amphibian oratory

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As much as we enjoy our time with students it is nice to get out read some of our adult work. We've had the opportunity to do so in Beijing with some Polish performance poets at the Bookworm Cafe, in Korea with the teachers from KIS in conjunction with a wine tasting (the audience at that one became increasingly amenable as that evening progressed) Shanghai we did a Friday set at the local watering hole. Here in Abuja, Rita provided us the chance to sing for our suppers at a funky but chic joint called the Salamander Cafe.

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Sara and Rita plotting before the show.

We teamed up with a couple local musicians, guitarists who accompanied as we performed some of our poems. Working with a musician can be a hit or miss endeavor but, if I do say so myself, I think this gig came off really well. The guitarists and we clicked from the first piece no matter what we threw at them.

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"Play bear music", I would say - or "How about a little flamenco?" And our guys made it sound like we had been rehearsing for a week. The audience of a dozen or so filled up the seats of the small room we were playing and were generous in their response. To top it off all book sales loot went to a local school for the blind.

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Not too shabby for a couple of crackpot poets from Cleveland Ohio.

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The musicians who made us look good.

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Mr. Pi’s cycling equation

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It is all improvised.

So says Andrew "Mr. Pi" - the salt and pepper mustachioed math teacher from the American International School of Abuja. He comes to Nigeria from Poland via Chicago, his last name one of those sneezes of consonants has been shortened to the mathematically appropriate diminutive.

Andrew is talking about the traffic as we return; bikes stepped to the back of his Toyota sedan, from a cycling excursion around the dam twenty minutes outside of the city. A whole lot of what I have seen in our couple of weeks here in Africa is the result of folks improvising. The teachers we have been working with have given up many of the things that citizens back home don't even think twice about, shipments of household belongings arrive but get ensnared in red tape, favorite foods are nonexistent, power flickers on and off as if it is controlled by a roulette wheel and a mosquito bite could lay you up for weeks - you don't even want to know what a spider bite might do - but they carry on with smiles.

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And right on cue, as I write this sitting in the Abuja airport we are delayed two hours - just enough time to make catching our connecting flight in Lagos to Accra a very iffy proposition - we too may soon be finding ourselves having to improvise.

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Anyway, this is supposed to be a post about the bike rides I took with Mr. Pi.

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Riding a bicycle is the closest thing one can do to self powered flying and remain connected to the earth. Cutting through the wind, gliding and bumping along faster and smoother than one could run but still cutting a narrow swath. You cover more distance quicker but you can still notice things that would be smear from a car's window. The second advantage of exploring a new and wonderfully strange place on two wheels is more often than not the locals give you a free pass - much as people everywhere cut the addle minded a little slack, bicyclists are treated as a benign anomaly.

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Backpack, water bottle wedged in a cage, a helmet that looks like half a perforated egg shell, wrap around shades and bright colored spandex makes for a source of joyful amusement when dropped into a hillside village in Borneo, a palm oil plantation in Sumatra, inner city Cleveland or amongst a clutch of thatched roundhouses on the outskirts of Abuja, Nigeria.

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Friday after school Andrew and I went on a little test ride through the city streets near the apartment complex where Sara and I were staying tie hour hosts Lyle and Rita. Children laughed and grownups waved - we passed through with an immunity that would usually be reserved for a clown on a unicycle. When we stopped people chatted with us, straddling that bike as we stood there, we posed no threat.

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The next morning we started out around 7am - enough time to get a couple hours in before heading out to the airport (where, unfortunately, we would sit for hours).

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We drove to the dam and parked the car by the gates of a German run sailing club. The club has no boats - Andrew says there was rumor of the joint having had a single catamaran years ago but where that vessel is - is unknown to humankind. The place is not closed down, just a boat club with no boats - it makes total sense in Nigeria.

The ride around the dam was great, we came upon a couple villages did some muddy single track and Mr. Pi talked with some cows. I will let the pictures do the talking. My only regret - a regret that is becoming a refrain for this trip to Africa, is that I had too little time to spend.

Next time, we have to be sure to build in a little extra time to allow for some improvisation.

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Service charge–not included

Baksheesh, greasing the palm, a little something for you, tip, bribe, dash, tax, service charge – however you want to assign a name to it it’s that little extra bit of cash, passed in a handshake or hidden in the fine print, that makes things happen.

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Here we sit in the domestic airport of Lagos, Nigeria. I tipped our driver – the man who carried our luggage to the ticket counter – the man who carried our passports to the ticket counter for us (bypassing the 50 yard long line) I paid for our luggage overage and I tipped the security guard who was questioning Sara about the beads she had bought at the market . Here in Nigeria this is called Dash – appropriately rhyming with cash.

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These little bribes are commonplace as we travel around the world and while our friends back home n the States may turn their noses up at the perceived impropriety – these same folks find no fault in paying hidden charges on their airline tickets – service fees – luxury taxes – paying shipping and handling for “fee” items -pricing automobiles san tax and title- destination fees for rental cars etc. etc. and of course none of these fine folks would ever enjoy a hundred dollar meal at some shmancy joint and then not leave a tip for their waiter. It’s all perspective my friend. At least when I slip the equivalent of twenty bucks in a Moroccan cop handshake I know that money is going to an individual who will spend it locally.

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This toe dipping into Africa that Sara and I are participating has not left us a whole lot of time for sightseeing yet – but we have managed to get out a little thanks to the kindness of our new friends we are meeting at the schools.

I collect masks and I mentioned this to our middle school crew at the dinner they hosted for us. Immediately two of the teachers there volunteered to escort us to a nearby market. The invisible magic charm we seem to be traveling with on this jaunt seems to be holding out. We were warned about crowds, pawing vendors, mud, pestilence, and locusts the size of geriatric dachshunds. (Okay, I made up the part about pestilence and locusts.)

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What we found instead was a pleasant stroll through uncrowded stalls populated by persistent, but not pesky proprietors. I scored a couple masks and Sara some giant glass beads and a table runner all at prices that we felt were more than fair. Great fun was had by all. And as an added bonus – when we later went back to school to have dinner with the high school teacher – the guard who signed us in was the same guy who sold Sara her beads in the market an hour earlier.

Now I’m not saying that greasing the wheels every now and then by donating a little extra cash into local economies has given me a little bankroll in my karma credit union account – but I’m sure it hasn’t hurt.

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The young man on the left carried our packages through the market for us – I tipped him well.

American International School Lagos, Nigeria

So far so good!

aisl001Upon our arrival in Lagos Saturday evening we sailed through immigration in record  time (this is of course relative – I’ll talk  a bit more about the travel here in my next post) according to our gracious and savvy host, school librarian Kay Riley and things just kept running at a quick an invigorating pace.

Sunday night  Kay hosted us for a pizza party at her place with the elementary school teachers. We chatted and got got insights into the teachers classes which helped us pick lessons and presentations for our work with their students.

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The gate to school.

Sara had a quick intro to the elementary and then she joined me for an hour assembly with the middle and high schoolers. Then we divided and conquered. Sara bravely facing off with the first graders and I wrangling the eighth grade. We continued on, Sara with elementary and me with the rest of the middle school, but our schedule was adroitly drawn up so that we were able to step in and make a little cameo appearance in most of the other’s sessions. This allowed us to take some questions from the middle school kids as a team before I led them through performance and writing clinics and for me to perform my hit primary poem “I Sit On My Bottom” with the carpet dwellers.

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In the evening we dined and laughed with the middle school teachers and made plans to take a trip to Lekke  Market (I need to check the spelling on that) with a couple of them after school the next day.

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So, Tuesday Sara continued on with the little guys and I worked on extended metaphor and memoir with the high school. We crammed a whole bunch of students onto the sessions in order to see everyone in the short time we had and I was more than impressed with hard work by the students and the enthusiasm of the teachers who attended the workshops.

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A quick trip to the market to buy some beads and masks, a lovely dinner with the high school folks a 5am wake up and BAM – here we are at the airport getting ready for or next Africa adventure.

On to Abuja!

Sunday, October 6, 2013

Up Down all around the town – it is a magical day.

Back when Sara and I first started this international poetry thing we found ourselves in a hotel mini van bouncing across desert roads in Bahrain chasing a herd of camels with a crew of fellow speakers from a literacy conference. One of these colleagues was a Doctor Seif – a specialist in Arabic grammar. While we bounded across the sands laughing and gaining on the humped denizens of the desert Dr. Seif exclaimed, “It is a magical day!”

This has become a catch phrase for me and Sara when something incredible is happening during one of our excursions. Today was a magical day.

I stopped in our little hotel’s restaurant to grab a quick cup of coffee before heading to a pizza reception hosted by our librarian poet wrangler Kay. I poured the packet of instant coffee over three sugar cubes covered that with a layer of condensed milk then drowned this whole oleo with boiling water from a small tin spouted pot. Nigerian coffee.

A big guy sitting  at the counter asked me, “Why is it that Americans drink coffee and Brits tea?”

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I replied that I had no idea then I complimented him on his Up Down. Earlier in the day I learned that the traditional Nigerian dress of matching top and slacks that the men wore was colloquially know as an Up Down. I said that I might have to get one for myself.

“Wait here.” my new friend replied.

He disappeared for bit then came back and handed me an Up Down. “A gift” he said.

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I learned that my benefactor was a retired general, Major General Bashiru Jinadu to be exact. And now I have an Up Down – of course it is going to need a bit of taking in – but it is certainly one of the biggest gifts I have ever received – literally. I humbly reciprocated by giving him a copy of my new book and promised to take him out for dinner if he ever found himself in the Cleveland area.

Thanks general, it is a magical day. How did you know orange is my color?

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